Canning & Freezing

Applesauce


Our trees are loaded with apples, so we have been canning apples this year. Here is the recipe we used:
3 pounds apples per quart
Water
Sugar
Wash apples; core and quarter apples. Cook apples until soft in a large covered sauce pan with just enough water to keep from sticking. Puree using an apple saucer. Add sugar to taste if desired. Pack into hot jars leaving one-half inch head space. Process 30 min. for 3,000 to 6,000 foot elevation.





Freezing Vegetables right is an important part of keeping them fresh tasting later on.  Here is an article I found on Mother Earth News!




Freezing vegetables is a fast and easy form of food preservation, and most crops, such as asparagus, broccoli, green beans, peppers, summer squash, dark leafy greens and all types of juicy berries, will actually be preserved best if frozen. Part of the beauty of freezing vegetables is that you can easily do it either in small batches — thus making good use of odds and ends from your garden — or in one big batch of your homegrown harvest or peak-season, discounted crops from the farmers market. Unlike with canning, you don’t have to pay attention to acidity or salt when freezing vegetables. Instead, you can mix and match veggies based on pleasing colors and flavors — for instance, using carrots for color, bulb fennel for texture, and green-leafed herbs for extra flavor. You can include blanched mild onions in your frozen combos (a good use for bolted onions that won’t store well), but don’t include garlic, black pepper or other “seed spices,” which can undergo unwanted flavor changes when frozen.
The greatest amount of space in my freezer belongs to vegetables, mostly in freezer bags that stack nicely because I first freeze the vegetables flat on cookie sheets. I also allot freezer space for odd-shaped packages, such as those for cabbage leaves that have been blanched and frozen flat for making cabbage rolls in winter. I even steam-blanch and freeze an assortment of hollowed-out, stuffable veggies, such as pattypan squash, zucchini, small eggplant and peppers. By season’s end, the contents of my freezer reflect the full diversity of my garden.

Freezing Vegetables: The Basics

Only use fruits and veggies in excellent condition that have been thoroughly cleaned. Most vegetables you plan to freeze should be blanched for two to five minutes, or until they are just done. Blanching — the process of heating vegetables with boiling water or steam for a set amount of time, then immediately plunging them into cold or iced water — stops enzyme activity that causes vegetables to lose nutrients and change texture. The cooled veggies can then be packed into bags, jars or other freezer-safe storage containers. Fruits or blanched vegetables can also be patted dry with clean kitchen towels, frozen in a single layer on cookie sheets, and then put into containers. Using cookie sheets for freezing ensures that the fruits and vegetables won’t all stick together, thus allowing you to remove a handful at a time from the container.
Unless you’re freezing liquids — which require space for expansion — you should remove as much air as possible from within the freezer container. With zip-close freezer bags, you must squeeze out the air by hand, whereas a vacuum sealer will suck out air as it seals the bags. Vacuum sealing reduces freezer burn (the formation of ice crystals that refreeze around the edges of the food and damage its taste and texture) because the crystals have no space in which to form. To read more about freezer-safe container options, see “Can You Freeze in Canning Jars?,” later in this article.


According to the National Center for Home Food Preservation (NCHFP), fruits and vegetables will last in the freezer for eight to 12 months if prepared and stored properly. Vacuum-seal bags cost more than regular freezer bags, but devotees say they are worth the extra expense because they make frozen foods last even longer.

Great-Tasting Tomatoes

At one time or another, I have been so crunched for time that I stored excess tomatoes simply by washing them and tossing them in a freezer bag. This method provides plenty of tomatoes for soup or sauce, and frozen, whole tomatoes peel like magic if held under warm water. If you want to retain the skins for nutritional reasons, you can run half-thawed tomatoes through a food processor. (At this point, you’ll be glad if you cored the tomatoes before you froze them.)
Frozen, whole tomatoes take up lots of freezer space, and because the tomatoes will not have been heated before they were frozen, enzyme activity may cause some loss of vitamins and other nutrients. This won’t happen, however, if you gently stew your tomatoes in their own juice before freezing them. After removing cores and skins, which you can do by blanching them, bring the coarsely chopped tomatoes to a gentle simmer for about 10 minutes, or until the tomatoes are tender. Allow to cool. If desired, you can ladle off some of the juice from the top and freeze it separately. Removing some of the juice will give you a frozen product similar to diced or stewed tomatoes in cans.
You can also include selected veggies and herbs in the mix when freezing tomatoes, and let the simmering tomatoes serve as the blanching liquid. For example, you could add chopped peppers and cilantro to a batch intended for use as a chili base; combine okra, peppers and thyme in jambalaya mixtures; or throw in everything from eggplant to zucchini for veggie stews. 
I freeze a few quart bags each of whole cherry tomatoes and stewed tomatoes along with dozens of tomato-based veggie mixtures, but the trick to having the best-tasting frozen tomatoes is to dry them halfway first, as is done in the Oven-Dried Tomato Recipe (later in this article). Removing some of the moisture from tomatoes intensifies their flavor, saves freezer space, and gives you the ideal tomato for pizza or pasta sauce.
Tip: If you have a small amount of tomato sauce left over from canning, keep it in the fridge and use it as a broth when freezing vegetables, such as summer squash or eggplant.

How to Freeze Green Beans

You can freeze most types of snap beans, including yard-long beans. The more substantial the bean, the better the finished frozen product. For example, pencil-thin filet beans soften too much when blanched and frozen, but bigger, firmer green beans are fine freezer candidates. Most pole beans freeze especially well, but my best batches of frozen beans come in fall, when I slow-cook savory shelly beans and freeze them. 


After blanching your green beans, you can put them directly into freezer containers, or pat them dry and pre-freeze them on a cookie sheet first. You can also freeze shelly beans in their cooking juices. When cooking thawed green beans, try using “dry” cooking methods, such as braising them in a little butter or olive oil, or making green bean oven fries. 
Tip: Purple-podded bean varieties can be used as blanching indicators on freezing day. Their purple hue will change to green when the beans are perfectly blanched.

How to Freeze Peppers

Opinion is divided over whether blanching is required when freezing peppers. Chopped, raw peppers stashed in freezer-safe containers will keep nicely for several months, but you can also try other methods for freezing peppers. I often cut ripe sweet peppers into halves or quarters for stuffing, then steam-blanch and freeze the pepper “boats” individually on cookie sheets. After they’re frozen, they can be nested together and packed in freezer bags. If I run out of chopped peppers, I start using the peppers I set by for stuffing.
Some peppers have wonderfully complex flavors that intensify if the peppers are roasted, grilled or smoked before they’re frozen (for a Fire-Roasted Peppers Recipe later in this article). Roasted peppers cooked over a hot fire until just done and then stashed in freezer bags are among the best-tasting foods produced by my garden and kitchen.
Tip: Always wear protective gloves when handling hot peppers. Putting on gloves is much easier (and less painful) than removing capsaicin — the compound that makes peppers hot — from your hands. 

Saving Summer Squash

Despite their beauty and productivity, summer squash — including zucchini, yellow squash and pattypans — are lightweights in the flavor department. They’re also prone to degradation from enzyme activity, so they must be thoroughly blanched before they’re frozen. I like to hollow out single-serving-sized pattypans and zucchinis for stuffing, and then steam-blanch them before freezing. 
The standard procedure for freezing summer squash is to blanch half-inch slices in boiling water or steam for three minutes. Because I’ll use most of my frozen squash in casseroles or soups, I often add more colorful vegetables and herbs to bags of frozen squash — for example, chopped basil, sliced carrots and ribbons of kale. When thawed, the squash mixtures seem like summer in a bag. 
Another method for freezing summer squash is to slice zucchini horizontally into large, flat slices before blanching. These can be grilled or used to make roll-ups. You can also freeze blanched and grated squash to add to all kinds of baked goods.


How to Freeze Corn

When we asked the MOTHER EARTH NEWS Facebook community about their favorite ways to freeze sweet corn, many respondents raved about the flavor of sweet corn that had been frozen raw in the husks, as described by Arkansas reader Betty Heffner: “The best method I’ve found is to pull back the husks to remove the silks and cut off any damage from the tips, then smooth the husk back over the corn before freezing it.” Many folks attested that this easy method preserves fresh corn flavor for six months, though it’s not among the approved processes for freezing corn listed by the NCHFP. 
Experts recommend blanching sweet corn before freezing it, which locks in taste, texture and nutrition. You can freeze whole, blanched ears if you have freezer space, or cut the kernels from blanched, cooled ears and freeze only the kernels. I like to cut the kernels raw, press out some juice, and bring the mixture barely to a simmer before cooling and freezing it. I then compost my cobs, but a tip from Carolyn Vellar of Kansas City, Mo., made me realize I’ve been doing so prematurely. Carolyn simmers her bare cobs to make corn broth, which she freezes for use in winter soups.
New Mexico reader Diana McGinn Calkins freezes kernels cut from blanched, cooled ears when she has no freezer space left for raw ears in the husk. “I get as much air out as possible and then flatten out the bag of corn. Once frozen, I break it up and put it back into the freezer. Then I can take out as much as I want.” 
For sweet corn that’s ready to heat and eat, try this easy roasting method from Katrina Steele of Howard, Ohio: “We cut the corn off the cob and pile it in a big pan with a stick of butter and enough milk to cover the bottom of the pan. Then we bake it at 350 degrees Fahrenheit until piping hot, stirring every 10 minutes. After it cools, we spoon it into freezer bags. Tastes wonderful!”

Can You Freeze in Canning Jars?

A few summers ago, a visiting friend was aghast when I poured blackberry juice into a canning jar and screwed on a used lid before stashing the container in the freezer door. She said I had broken two rules: freezing in canning jars and reusing canning lids. But some rules can be carefully broken. You can freeze in clean canning jars as long as you leave plenty of headspace, because liquids expand as they freeze. I leave 11⁄2 inches in pints and 2 inches in quarts. 
Used lids should never later be reused for canning, as these can’t be trusted to form a sound seal. But you don’t want a seal when freezing in canning jars. I screw lids on loosely at first, and then tighten them after the jars have frozen solid. I mostly use canning jars for freezing fruit and veggie juices, which are messy to handle in bags. I also use canning jars for freezing dried veggies, which will last two years in the freezer but only about one year on a pantry shelf. 


You may opt to freeze your produce in glass containers if you’re concerned about chemicals that can leach from plastics onto your food. Most freezer bags are made of No. 4 LDPE (low-density polyethylene), which is not known to leach chemicals. If you’re worried about putting hot food into plastic, however, wait until the food cools before packing it into bags. Learn more about safely storing food in plastic.

Flavor-Packed Freezer Recipes

Oven-Dried Tomato Recipe
You can make these delicious morsels in an oven, in a food dehydrator, or out in the sun on a dry, sunny day.
If using your oven, preheat it to 250 degrees Fahrenheit. Wash and dry ripe tomatoes. Cut paste tomatoes and cherry tomatoes lengthwise in half. Cut slicing tomatoes into quarters. Arrange the prepared tomatoes — with the cut sides facing up — on baking sheets that have rims to catch any juices. Sprinkle with sea salt. You can season the tomatoes with fresh herbs and a light drizzle of olive oil. Place in the oven for 1 hour, then reduce heat to its lowest setting. Dry for 2 more hours, or until the tomatoes flatten and the edges pucker.
When using a dehydrator, dry the tomatoes for about 4 hours.
To dry your tomatoes in the sun, lay them out on a screen or in a solar dehydrator (to build your own, see Build a Solar Food Dehydrator) and leave them outside in full sun until they have fully collapsed. If your tomatoes are exposed, cover them with a light cloth to deter bugs.
Freeze your half-dried tomatoes on cookie sheets, and then pack them into freezer-safe containers. Fully dried tomatoes take longer to dry, and won’t need to be frozen.
Fire-Roasted Pepper Recipe 
Wash peppers and cut out any blemished spots.
Place whole peppers on a hot grill or under a hot broiler. Use tongs to turn peppers as needed until they’re blistered on all sides, with brown and black patches.
Place the hot, roasted peppers in a large pot with a lid or enclose them in a paper bag. Allow them to cool. When the peppers are cool, use your hands and a table knife to remove loose pieces of skin. Cut peppers in half and remove cores. Freeze the roasted peppers on cookie sheets and then pack into freezer-safe containers. Roasted peppers can be used for dozens of recipes.
If you’re in a hurry, you can freeze whole, roasted peppers and then remove the skins by dunking them in warm water after they’ve been frozen. Their warm-water dunk makes them easy to chop, too.


Read more: http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/freezing-vegetables-zm0z13aszsor.aspx?PageId=5#ixzz2c9KKdjGH


Homemade Applesauce     

Canning Applesauce

Quantity: An average of 21 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; an average of 13 1/2 pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints. A bushel weighs 48 pounds and yields 14 to 19 quarts of sauce — an average of 3 pounds per quart.
Quality: Select apples that are sweet, juicy and crisp. For a tart flavor, add 1 to 2 pounds of tart apples to each 3 pounds of sweeter fruit.
Procedure: Wash, peel, and core apples. If desired, slice apples into water containing ascorbic acid to prevent browning. Place drained slices in an 8- to 10-quart pot. Add 1/2 cup water. Stirring occasionally to prevent burning, heat quickly until tender (5 to 20 minutes, depending on maturity and variety). Press through a sieve or food mill, or skip the pressing step if you prefer chunk-style sauce. Sauce may be packed without sugar. If desired, add 1/8 cup sugar per quart of sauce. Taste and add more, if preferred. Reheat sauce to boiling. Fill jars with hot sauce, leaving 1/2-inch headspace. Adjust lids and process.
Processing directions for canning applesauce in a boiling-water, a dial, or a weighted-gauge canner are given in the Image Gallery.

Have a smartphone or tablet? Download the free MOTHER EARTH NEWS library app for access to our How to Can resource (also free!). Find it in the iTunes App Store and Google Play. It’s the power of canning know-how in the palm of your hands!


Read more: http://www.motherearthnews.com/real-food/canning-applesauce-ze0z1305zbla.aspx#ixzz2k6F4pKYf


Here in southwest Virginia, my partner and I take pride in growing and storing most of our fruits and vegetables. Knowing where our food comes from gives us confidence in its goodness, plus we save about $5,000 a year through our gardening and food storage efforts. There is another benefit, which is the utter convenience of having a self-provisioned home. In early winter when our stores are full, I feel like I’m living in a well-stocked organic grocery store.
We bring many years of experience to this quest, and we’re still learning. Measured by weight, stored garden crops make up more than half of our overall harvest, with every onion and potato just about as fresh as it was the day it came from the garden. Our mix of storage vegetables and fruits varies from year to year and we’ve learned that putting by storage crops is something anyone can do — even if your produce comes from the farmers market. By making use of cold storage spots in your basement or garage, and perhaps adding a seasonal second refrigerator, you can use our charts to easily store 20 storage crops for winter eating using simple, time-tested methods.

Sleeping Quarters for Storage Crops

Success with storage crops hinges on finding methods that convince the crops that they are enjoying a natural period of dormancy in unusually comfortable conditions. This typically involves slowing physiology by controlling respiration (usually by lowering temperature) and/or providing moisture so crisp root vegetables sense they are still in the ground. Some staple storage crops, such as garlic, onions and shallots, need dry conditions to support prolonged dormancy.
Most storage crops need to be cured to enhance their storage potential. During the curing process, potatoes and sweet potatoes heal over small wounds to the skin, garlic and onions form a dry seal over the openings at their necks, and dry beans and grain corn let go of excess moisture that could otherwise cause them to rot. Harvesting, curing and storage requirements vary with each crop — see the charts in How to Harvest, Cure and Store 20 Storage Crops for full details. In my experience, harvesting and curing vegetables properly leads to much more flexibility when it comes to long-term storage conditions.

Storing Potatoes

Seeking out good food storage spots in your home or on your property can lead to interesting discoveries. Take storing potatoes, for example. When we asked the MOTHER EARTH NEWS Facebook community to share favorite ways for storing potatoes in winter, we received dozens of great ideas, including these:
Place cured potatoes in a burlap bag, tuck the bag into a plastic storage bin left open a wee bit, and keep in an unheated basement.
Line plastic laundry baskets with newspapers, with potatoes arranged in layers between more newspapers. Place the packed, covered baskets in an unheated garage.
In the basement, make short towers of potatoes by stacking them between layers of open egg cartons. Cover the towers with cloth to protect the potatoes from light.
Place sorted potatoes in cloth grocery bags that have been lined with black plastic bags, and store in a cold space under the stairs. A similar method: Sort different potatoes into paper bags, then place the bags in milk crates to prevent bruising.
Use an old dresser in a cool room or basement for storing potatoes in winter. Leave the drawers partially open for ventilation.
In a shady spot outdoors, place a tarp over the ground and cover it with an inch of loose straw. Pile on potatoes and cover with more straw, a second tarp, and a 10-inch blanket of leaves or straw.
Bury a garbage can horizontally so that its bottom half is at least 12 inches deep in the soil. Place potatoes in the can with shredded paper or clean straw. Secure the lid with a bungee cord, and cover with an old blanket if needed to shade out sun.
Here in Virginia, we have vole issues that require us to harvest our early spuds promptly, so my buried garbage can gets plenty of use for storing potatoes. Buried coolers or even buried freezer bodies (with machinery removed) can work in the same way.

Storing Crisp Root Vegetables

Theoretically, root vegetables that grow well below ground can be mulched over in fall and dug as needed in winter. This often works well with parsnips, but most gardeners would risk losing much of an overwintered carrot or beet crop to wireworms, voles or other critters. Repeated freezing and thawing of the surface soil damages shallow-rooted turnips and beets. It’s always safer (and more convenient) to harvest root crops, clean them up and secure them in cold storage. In Zones 7 and warmer, you’ll probably need a second refrigerator, as you won’t have naturally cooled spaces that stay below 40 degrees Fahrenheit in winter. In colder winter climates, you have several options:
Bins, buckets or trugs packed with damp sand or sawdust and stashed in cold spots around your homestead, such as under your basement stairs or in an unheated garage or storage shed. This method works amazingly well if you can find a place with temperatures in the 32- to 40-degree range. Every few weeks, dump out containers and repack them, eating any roots that are showing signs of softening.
The previously described method of storing potatoes in a buried garbage container works well for root vegetables, but you’ll need a second one (or a buried cooler) for roots that need moist conditions. Pack these in damp sand or sawdust to maintain high humidity.
Working outside the fridge, the biggest challenge in storing crisp roots is maintaining high humidity without promoting molds and soft rots. That’s where packing materials, including damp sawdust or damp sand, come in handy. Sawdust is clean and lightweight, and the residue can be shaken out into the garden. Sand weighs more but is reusable — simply dry it in the sun and return it to a bucket or bin until you need it in the fall.
A seasonal second refrigerator is worth considering if you have a lot of carrots or beets to store, live in a climate too warm for underground storage, or want to store root vegetables to sell or trade later.
When preparing to store carrots, beets and other root vegetables in plastic bags in the refrigerator, sprinkle in a few drops of water as you pack each bag. Ideally, a few drops of condensation should form inside the bags after they have been well-chilled in the fridge.

Storing Squash

Now for something really easy: storing winter squash. The hard rinds of winter squash protect them from drying out, so all they need is a cool spot where you can check them from time to time. Look for signs of mold, and promptly consume squash that have developed minor blemishes, such as discoloration or soft spots.
Some types of winter squash store longer than others, so it’s important to eat them in proper order.
Squash and pumpkins classified as Cucurbita pepo tend to keep for only two to three months. These include acorn squash, delicata or sweet potato squash, spaghetti squash and most small pumpkins. Eat these first.
Buttercup and kabocha squash (C. maxima) will keep for four months under good conditions, but after two months the fruits should be watched closely for signs of softening or mold. Many squash pie devotees bake up all questionable buttercups in early winter and stash the mashed squash in the freezer. This is a wise move, because it’s far easier to make a pie or batch of muffins if you have frozen squash purée waiting in your freezer than it is to face down a squash the size of your head.
The smooth, hard rinds of butternut squash (C. moschata) help give them the longest storage life (often six months or more), so butternuts should be eaten last. We grow more butternuts than any other winter squash because they are such a cinch to store.

A Second Fridge for Storing Fruit

As owners of six mature fruit trees, we couldn’t manage our harvest without a second refrigerator for storing apples and pears. Our Asian and D’Anjou pears will last to December, with apples going a bit longer — but only if they are refrigerated in containers that retain moisture. So we plug in an old, semi-retired refrigerator in August, then clean it out and turn it off in January. We don’t mix fruits and veggies in the same fridge, because fruits give off so much ethylene gas that they can cause vegetable crops to deteriorate in wacky ways.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) doesn’t exactly approve of second refrigerators, in part because most Americans already maintain more refrigerator space than they need. A more serious issue is the age of many second refrigerators and freezers. Newer models are often three times more efficient than older ones. According to the EPA’s Energy Star statistics, a refrigerator from the 1970s can cost an extra $200 a year to operate, while a 1980s vintage refrigerator may cost $70 more to run compared with a new model.
We will eventually upgrade our elderly, part-time fruit fridge to an efficient Energy Star model, but meanwhile, it earns its keep. Storing apples in a refrigerator often greatly improves their flavor, which is definitely the case with our midseason ‘Enterprise’ apples — three weeks in the fridge changes their flavor from good to spectacular. Sometimes how you store a crop is just as important as how you grow it.
I don’t mean to make self-provisioning sound too easy. Only top-quality produce should be stored, and every season some crop I planned to store either fails or doesn’t make the grade. These losses are soon forgotten as August and September whiz by in a blur, with one food storage project after another. Then October comes and we’re amazed at what we have: a basement brimming with homegrown winter squash, onions and garlic; a well-stocked pantry with organic dried beans, peppers and canned goods; and the fridge and freezer full, save for enough space for two turkeys grown by local farmers. If this is not the good life, I don’t know what is.

20 Vegetables and Fruits That Store for Two Months or More

  • Apple
  • Dry beans
  • Beet
  • Cabbage
  • Carrot
  • Celeriac
  • Celery
  • Grain corn
  • Garlic
  • Leek
  • Onion
  • Parsnip
  • Pear
  • Potato
  • Pumpkin
  • Rutabaga
  • Shallot
  • Sweet potato
  • Turnip
  • Winter squash
Find out the full details on how to harvest, cure and store these crops using the charts in How to Harvest, Cure and Store 20 Storage Crops.

How to Cure Sweet Potatoes


Sweet potatoesAre your sweet potatoes sweet? The first year we grew sweet potatoes, we dug some up and brought them home to bake. Our very first home grown sweet potatoes! They were…not so great. Starchy and zero sweetness. At a total loss, we checked the internet. Little did we know, you have to cure sweet potatoes to turn their starches into sugar. Curing sweet potatoes requires a warm, humid environment for a period of 4 days to two weeks. Ideally, 80-85 degrees with 80-90 percent humidity. The closer you come to these ideal conditions, the less time it takes to do the job.
After curing, you are supposed to store them at 55-60 degrees for six to eight weeks to finish developing the sugars. We don’t do this, and it doesn’t seem to matter.
Meeting these conditions was trial and error for us. We tried too hard at the beginning. We stacked up crates and put a table cloth over the crates, making a little tent. We put a mini space heater in the middle. The heat collected into pockets and overheated some of the potatoes, causing rot. Now we find that just keeping them in our high tunnel in crates works great. It is moist and warm in the hoophouse. It takes 4-6 days for sweet-as-can-be potatoes. If we harvest too late in the season, and our hoophouse is not so warm, we may need to reconsider our curing location.
I think for a small harvest, a small pantry with a space heater and a bucket of water might do the trick. Monitor the temperature and humidity, though, so you don’t overdo it. If your temps aren’t high enough, it will probably still work but will take longer.
Curing has another benefit, beyond sweetening. It cures the cuts and nicks in the skin of the potatoes so that they keep well. So make sure that you snap apart bunches of potatoes and snap off dangling roots before the curing process, so that these fresh cuts will cure. Even sliced ones cure their cut ends and keep pretty well, but we separate these out just in case.
For best storage, leave sweet potatoes unwashed. Once they are washed, their shelf life is limited.
My three favorite simple sweet potato recipes:
Baked Sweet Potatoes - Scrub sweet potatoes and spike a couple holes in them with a knife. Bake at 350 degrees until soft through the middle. Add butter. Eat the skins too, they are very nutritious!
Sweet Potato Fries - Slice sweet potatoes into French fry strips, toss in a bowl with spices and just a little olive oil (just to coat), bake on a cookie sheet at 410 degrees for about 40 minutes.
Sweet Potato Minestrone Soup - Peel and cut sweet potatoes into cubes and toss them into a pot of minestrone soup, simmer for 20 minutes or so until potatoes are soft. Sweet potatoes add a great unique dimension to any tomato-base minestrone. Here is my favorite sweet potato minestrone recipe, the Moosewood Restaurant’s Winter Minestrone.
Ilene White Freedman operates House in the Woods organic CSA farm with her husband, Phil, in Frederick, Maryland. The Freedmans are one of six 2013 Mother Earth News Homesteaders of the Year. Ilene blogs about making things from scratch, putting up the harvest, gardening and farm life at MotherEarthNews.com and Blog.HouseInTheWoods.com, easy to follow from our Facebook page. For more about the farm, go to www.HouseInTheWoods.com.


Read more: http://www.motherearthnews.com/homesteading-and-livestock/cure-sweet-potatoes-zbcz1310.aspx#ixzz2keoLv4EO

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